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Off the Vine

Affordable, versatile Cotes du Rhone sure to please

Before we get to this week's wine there is an update on one of the stories from last week. As you may remember Vintages is releasing Greetings 2007 Cabernet Merlot from Greenlane Winery (owned by former Brockville resident Robert Paul) on September 10th. A follow-up news release has arrived announcing a chance to taste a variety of Greenlane wines at the Buell St. Bistro on Friday July 29th at 7:00 p.m.
The evening will feature a four-course dinner, each accompanied by select Greenlane wines, including the aforementioned 2007 Cabernet Merlot. Robert Paul will be there to guide diners through the wines and answer questions.
Also tune in Friday at 12:30 to Ontario Today on CBC Radio. Konrad Ejbich, the CBC's resident expert will be discussing Greenlane's 2010 Estate Pinot Gris Riesling, his choice for favourite summer white. Now to this week's wine.
The Rhone region of France continues to be a mystery to the average wine drinker. Part of the problem stems from the fact that Rhone wines seldom carry the name of the grapes used in their production. In a varietal conscious marketplace many draw comfort in knowing the grape varieties in wines.
Another problem is that the Rhone is made up of two distinctive sub-regions. The north produces wines that are mostly 100% varietal, usually Shiraz. Again, there is no mention of the grape in the name. They also tend to be very, very expensive, reaching into the realm of wine collectors. If your first encounter with the Rhone involved Cote-Rotie, Hermitage or Cornas, all long-lived, high priced northern appellations, you might never come back.
However 100 kilometers to the south you come to the home of some of the most remarkable blended wines in the world. They are also very reasonably priced. Oh yes, when I say blended we are talking about up to 13 grape varieties in a single wine! Winemakers in this region are veritable magicians.
The Ogier family began operations in 1859. Today they are one of the oldest and largest firms in the southern Rhone with a reputation for excellent wines that reflect the traditional character of the region. Ogier Heritages Cotes Du Rhone 2010 (CSPC# 535849, $14.95, King Street) is the latest in a long run of excellent vintages and a perfect example of a quality southern Rhone red.
Cote Du Rhone reds are known for their aromatic qualities and Ogier doesn't disappoint with lush strawberry and cherry fruit, chocolate, soft oak and a dusting of spice on the nose. While it falls squarely in the middle of the medium-bodied range Ogier has deep, voluptuous fruit flavours and a fleshy, creamy quality, which tends to make it drink a little above its weight class.       
There is a burst of fresh dark fruit on the palate, particularly black cherry, plum and dark currants. Intermingled with the fruit are mocha, light oak, vanilla and spice flavours. Soft, elegant tannins and generous acidity combine with the fruit to produce a wonderfully balanced wine. The finish has great length and complexity.
Ogier is the definition of a versatile food wine, providing an excellent partner for your Thanksgiving turkey or your next backyard barbecue hamburger. We had our Ogier with a barbecue of grilled chicken and filet and it didn't miss a beat. Team it with red or white meats with confidence. Enjoy!

Rioja and roast beef: Perfecto!

This week we once again flip the column on its head and start from a perspective of a specific food and the best wines to match with it. The specific request that launched this food first approach was for wine matches for an everyday meal featuring roast beef, so that's what we'll feature in this column.
Roast beef has always been at or near the top of most comfort food lists and despite the influx of international influence on today's menus, remains there. The picture of the family gathered around the Sunday roast, so ubiquitous in movies and television of the 50's and 60's, still resonates true today. The only addition is a nice bottle of wine to enhance the experience.
There are many different varieties, or cuts, of roast, but we'll keep our approach fairly generic. When looking for matching wines they all present essentially the same flavour profile, a rich, succulent combination of fattiness and protein. The best combinations will feature wines with sufficient depth of flavour to stand up to this meaty-richness, even if their body style is lighter.
Generally speaking most dry red wines will match nicely with our roast. The list is lengthy and includes Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Syrah/Shiraz, Merlot, Zinfandel, Pinot Noir, Rioja and Barbaresco. So you can choose a wine based on your personal preferences.
As always some work better than others. Try to avoid wines that are too soft and supple, they won't stand up to the fatty component of the beef, which needs a wine with a modicum of tannins to balance the fattiness. Overly fruity wines can be slightly jarring, wines lacking fruit equally disappointing. Wines with an abundance of fresh, sweet oak, such as a good Rioja, will perform quite nicely.
It seems only appropriate that we choose a wine with a long pedigree of quality to pair with our traditional Sunday (or weekday) roast. Campo Viejo Crianza (CSPC# 620997, $14.45, Brockville Shopping Centre) was one of the first Spanish wines at the LCBO to gain recognition amongst consumers for its quality and food-friendly versatility. It may not be dominating the headlines as it once did, but it still offers outstanding quality and flavour for a very reasonable price. The 2006 and 2007 vintages (LCBO stock is just changing as the 2006 runs out and is replaced by 2007) are both outstanding.
Over the years this stylish Rioja has evolved into a synthesis of styles with New World forward fruit and the Old World attention to structure, complexity and balance. The complex nose is open and enticing, with fresh red berry, vanilla, herbal and toasted oak aromas. The wine, which is aged for two years (one year in oak) before being released to market, is medium-bodied with layers of fruit and a tangy, refreshing texture.
Look for concentrated, almost jammy red and black berry fruit, augmented by cassis and cherry, chocolate, oak and vanilla. Medium tannins and ample acidity balance the fruit. The finish is persistent and flavourful.
The intense fruit flavours allow Campo Viejo Crianza to match perfectly with our roast as well as other roast or grilled red meats, including grilled lamb. Its wonderful structure and balance make it a candidate for partnering with pork and roast turkey. So head to the butcher's, pick up your favourite cut of roast and enjoy!

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